This thoroughly revised and updated edition of Fashion Theory: A Reader brings together and presents a wide range of essays on fashion theory that will engage and inform both the general reader and the specialist student of fashion. From apparently simple and accessible theories concerning what fashion is to seemingly more difficult or challenging theories concerning globalisation and new media, this collection contextualises different theoretical approaches to identify, analyse and explain the remarkable diversity, complexity and beauty of what we understand and experience every day as fashion and clothing.
This second edition contains entirely new sections on fashion and sustainability, fashion and globalisation, fashion and digital/social media and fashion and the body/prosthesis. It also contains updated and revised sections on fashion, identity and difference, and on fashion and consumption and fashion as communication. More specifically, the section on identity and difference has been updated to include contemporary theoretical debates surrounding Islam and fashion, and LGBT+ communities and fashion and the section on consumption now includes theories of 'prosumption'. Each section has a specialist and dedicated Editor's Introduction which provides essential conceptual background, theoretical contextualisation and critical summaries of the readings in each section.
Bringing together the most influential and ground breaking writers on fashion and exposing the ideas and theories behind what they say, this unique collection of extracts and essays brings to light the presuppositions involved in the things we all think and say about fashion. This second edition of Fashion Theory: A Reader is a timeless and invaluable resource for both the general reader and undergraduate students across a range of disciplines including sociology, cultural studies and fashion studies.
Introduction
PART 1: Fashion and Fashion Theories
Introduction
1. Elizabeth Wilson
Explaining it Away
2. Gilles Lipovetsky
The Empire of Fashion: Introduction
3. Barbara Vinken
The Fashion Zeitgeist
4. Pierre Bourdieu
Haute Couture and Haute Culture
PART 2: What Fashion Is and Is Not
Introduction
5. Edward Sapir
Fashion
6. Nancy Troy
Fashion as Art
7. Fred Davis
Antifashion: The Vicissitudes of Negation
8. Georg Simmel
The Philosophy of Fashion
9. Ted Polhemus and Lynn Procter
Fashion and Antifashion
PART 3: Fashion and (the) Image
Introduction
10. Roland Barthes
The Fashion System: Fashion Photography
11. Paul Jobling
Going Beyond The Fashion System
12. Erica Lennard
Doing Fashion Photographs
13. Tamsin Blanchard
Fashion and Graphics: Introduction
PART 4: Sustainable Fashion
Introduction
14. Marie-Cécile Cervellon and Lindsey Carey
Consumers' Perceptions of 'Green''
15. Kate Fletcher
Fashion, Needs and Consumption
16. Alison Gwilt
Fashion and Sustainability: Repairing the Clothes We Wear
PART 5: Fashion as Communication
Introduction
17. Umberto Eco
Social Life as a Sign System
18. Roland Barthes
The Analysis of the Rhetorical System
19. Fred Davis
Do Clothes Speak? What Makes them Fashion?
20. Colin Campbell
When the Meaning is not a Message: A Critique of the Consumption as Communication Thesis
21. Malcolm Barnard
Fashion as Communication Revisited
PART 6: Fashion: Identity and Difference
Introduction
Gender
22. Tim Edwards
Express Yourself: The Politics of Dressing Up
23. Lee Wright
Objectifying Gender: The Stiletto Heel
24. Joanne Entwistle
Power Dressing and The Construction of the Career Woman
LGBT+
25. Annamari Vänskä
From Gay to Queer - Or, Wasn't Fashion Always Already A Very Queer Thing?
26. Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas
Lesbian Style: From Mannish Women to Lipstick Dykes
Social Class
27. Angela Partington
Popular Fashion and Working-Class Affluence
28. Herbert Blumer
Fashion: From Class Differentiation to Collective Selection
Ethnicity and Race
29. Emil Wilbekin
Great Aspirations: Hip Hop and Fashion Dress for Excess and Success
30. Reina Lewis
Muslim Fashion: Taste and Distinction; The Politics of Style
31. Emma Tarlo
Visibly Muslim: Islamic Fashion Scape
32. Carol Tulloch
You Should Understand, It's a Freedom Thing: The Stoned Cherrie - Steve Biko T-Shirt
PART 7: Fashion, Clothes and The Body
Introduction
33. Joanne Entwistle
Addressing the Body
34. Ingun Grimstad Klepp & Mari Rysst
Deviant Bodies and Suitable Clothes
35. Laini Burton & Jana Melkumova-Reynolds
'My Leg is a Giant Stiletto Heel': Fashioning the Prosthetised Body
36. Malcolm Barnard
Fashion, Clothes and The Body
PART 8: Fashion: Production, Consumption, Prosumption
Introduction
37. Marco Pedroni
The Crossroad between Production and Consumption
38. Tim Dant
Consuming or Living with Things? Wearing it Out
39. Tommy Tse and Ling Tung Tsang
Reconceptualising Prosumption
40. Kate Fletcher
Attentiveness, Materials, and Their Use
41. Daniel Miller
The Little Black Dress is the Solution, but what is the Problem?"
PART 9: Modern Fashion
Introduction
42. Elizabeth Wilson
Adorned in Dreams: Introduction
43. Kurt Back
Modernism and Fashion
44. Richard Sennett
Public Roles/Personality in Public
45. Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas
Walter Benjamin: Fashion, Modernity and the City Street
PART 10: Post-modern Fashion
Introduction
46. Jean Baudrillard
The Ideological Genesis of Needs/Fetishism and Ideology
47. Jean Baudrillard
Fashion, or the Enchanting Spectacle of the Code
48. Kim Sawchuk
A Tale of Inscription: Fashion Statements
49. Alison Gill
Deconstruction Fashion
PART 11: Digital/New Media and Fashion
Introduction
50. Sandra Lee Bartky
Narcissism, Femininity and Alienation
51. Agnès Rocamora
Personal Fashion Blogs
52. Katrin Tiidenberg
Bringing Sexy Back: Reclaiming the Body Aesthetic via Self-Shooting
53. Agnès Rocamora
Mediatization and Digital Media in the Field of Fashion
PART 12: Global and Transnational Fashion
Introduction
54. Malcolm Barnard
Globalization and Colonialism
55. Jan Brand and Jose Teunissen
From Global Fashion/Local Tradition
56. Ian Skoggard,
Transnational Commodity Flows and the Global Phenomenon of the Brand
57. Olga Gurova
Body, gender and discourse on fashion in Soviet Russia in the 1950s and 1960s
58. Lise Skov
Hong Kong Fashion Designers as Cultural Intermediaries
